WEEK 9:

  As we wrap up our semester of field trips around San Francisco, we took a trip to North Beach or as the locals like to call it, Little Italy. Unfortunately I was not able to take the trip with the rest of the class, but I made it only a few days later, along with my roommate. Getting to this destination was a trek compared to other trips, but it was well worth it. North beach is a neighborhood in the northeast part of San Francisco. It is located adjacent to Chinatown, Fisherman’s Wharf and Russian Hill. Historically this area has been home to a large Italian American population.  

I thought while on the trip, where is the beach? Historically, the area was actually a beach but in the late 19th century, the beach was filled in with landfill. With all the docks and wharves, the southern half of North Beach became home of the Barbary Coast. Just as many other place in San Francisco, the area was hit hard by the 1906 earthquake. The regrowth of the area brought about the large Italian community. A few decades later, in the 50’s many bars and restaurants in the neighborhoods became the epicenter of the Beat Generation. This was a group of American post- World War II writers who came in the 1950’s, where they’d experiment with drugs, sexuality, Eastern religion and much more. This is where the term “beatnik” originated from. Over the years, the Italian community has began to shrink, but there are still a prominent group of young, professional San Franciscans living in the area. 

Barbary Boast, grew to be known as the city’s red light district, full of strip tease clubs and other night life. America’s first topless bar was opened in the area in 1964, known as the Condor Club. There are other well known strip clubs and establishments in the area. 

“When in Rome, do as the Roman’s do.” This was the motto I felt suited the trip to North Beach. While walking through the streets, the delicious smell of freshly baked, cheesy, warm pizza, large bowls of delicious pasta’s, and pastries wafted through the air. I responded to my growling stomach, by grabbing myself a lush slice of pizza. While sitting outside on the street enjoying my food, I took in the atmosphere of the area. There were many large families out for lunch, people out for afternoon walks, and other locals that seemed to just be soaking in the stormy day. We finished off our trip with a stop to a gelato shop, I mean “when in Rome,” right?

Though North Beach is adjacent to Chinatown, the signage is completely different. My favorite part of the signage was the Italian flags painted onto each lamp post. A lot of the signs were for Italian foods. Examples of these signs are “original Joe’s- Fine italian Food” and “Fine Italian Cuisine- Pellegrino.” As we continued walking around, the food signs kept popping out to me. The graphic language for restaurants and clubs competed for my attention, but not in an overpowering way. Were as in Chinatown, where the signs and colors were close together and bright, the signs in Little Italy didn’t overpower each other. When we reached the area where the red light district begins, the signage becomes larger and more electric, flashing with neon lights. For me personally, the restaurant I choose attracted me with the filled seats along the street and the classic Italian sign advertising pizza. 

Coit Tower is seen from everywhere around North beach, it towers over the whole neighborhood. Coit Tower, as well as the Beach Chalet, is part of the WPA project. The tower, built in 1933, is in the city’s pioneer Park. The tower was proposed in 1931, as a gift from Lillie Hitchcook Coit- a wealthy socialite of San Francisco who’s bequest was to beautify the city. Murals line the walls of the tower, just as they did at the Beach Chalet. Most of the murals are open to public viewing without charge during open hours, although problems with the murals have arisen. The murals have had weathering problems and have began to degrade.

Upon arriving into this neighborhood, you feel as if you have left San Francisco and made a trip to Italy. The use of Italian flags all around the area was my favorite addition to Little Italy. I’ll be sure to go back next time I want some delicious Italian food or next time I need my gelato fix.